If you missed the ETXEBERRIA Fall 2015 show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week last Sunday, check out the collection at Tranoï New York at The Tunnel today and tomorrow. Tranoï New York, is a fashion fair hosting a selection of 80 European, American and Asian designers during Women’s Fall NYC Market Week.
Held at New York’s historic former nightclub Tunnel, this trade show for clients and buyers is in essence a New York version of the original fashion trade show held in Paris six times a year and during Paris Fashion Week, Tranoï takes place in its prestigious locations and puts creativity and business together. Tranoï – which literally means “between us” – is an artistic platform for more than 1000 premium designers from all over the world. It also includes artistic installations, designers exhibitions, catwalk shows, fashion parties and other events. It is located at the terminal stores at 269 11th Avenue, between 27th & 28th streets.
Basque designer Roberto Lopez Etxeberria, by his own admission was playing a “volumetric game” with his fall collection, with over-sized suits combining elements of tailored construction with a few twists and turns of zippers and furs and color blocking. With a color palette of basic black, white and gradations of grays with occasional explosions of furry red parkas, the designer worked wool and felt into over-sized suits, featuring zippers instead of buttons down the front of the jackets. The Neapolitan tailoring from the 1950’s, according to the designer, played an important role regarding the silhouettes and lengths.
The silhouette of the striped wool suits combined a basic block cut for the jacket with wide shoulders. But the pants, the designer said, in many cases, were influenced by the Japanese “hakama” pleated pant bound at the bottom, and worn by samurai warriors to protect their legs from brush when riding a horse. To the western eye the pants were reminiscent of motorcycle riding pants silhouette. You know, the pants with the humps on the side. But instead of heavy wool or leather these pants were in soft wool and felt that flapped a little with movement. The end product — warm, comfortable, roomy menswear. A series of more tailored suit jackets, which referenced pinstripes, slimmed the silhouette.
Several women walked in the show wearing the suits, but they were not tailored to the feminine form. Could these suits be the “boyfriend” suits of the future? I’d wear them! The standout pieces included a flaming red fur parka was rocked Model Deandra Forrest. And the finale offering was a white fur and wool floor length gown definitely formed for the feminine frame.
Jonathan Rendon had been backstage last Sunday during preparations for the Etxeberria Fall 2015 show. Before the flipping through pictures on his cell phone he pointed to a fiery red fur creation.”This is going to be very dramatic,” he said. It was!
“Any man can wear it!,” Rendon said excitedly about the collection after the show. “It’s lenient — there’s lots of room to fit more clothes under. Especially for this weather — it will cover you perfectly for winter.”
Model Federico Gomez, who walked in the show, has long been a fan of Etxeberria. “It’s not your typical suit. He has a futuristic look, but smart.”